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Well we have ridden 3,443 kilometers to arrive at the finish of the Giro d'Italia. It has truly been a sensational Grand Tour, grand in every sense of the word. And we will conclude the Giro with our final bottle of /WORLD TOUR WINE/ for this race.
I have decided for the final stage of each grand tour to choose a bottle from that country not limited by the race parcours. A bottle that represents that greatness of that country's viniculture.
Today's bottle is from the legendary appellation of Barolo in Piedmonte. This is Nebbiolo, one of the great wines of the world, capable of truly ethereal expression. Nebbiolo is one of the more unique varieties -- its color is light and body lithe. The nose is floral. You expect something soft and delicate. Then, you taste it. A young Barolo hits you with a sledgehammer of tannins, drying your mouth and fusing your tongue to your palate. Then the acid builds, and your tongue is released by the searing acidity. A mature Barolo is one of the great pleasures of life -- all those sharp edges and rounded and blended into something that is nuanced but also profound, with an incomparable mouthfeel.
Barolo also has a bit of drama regarding how it is aged. Traditionally, it is aged in botti, gigantic barrels of sometimes tens of thousands of liters. These were passed down from generation to generation and fill traditional Piedmontese wineries. A modern style dispenses with botti - sometimes the next generation of winemakers took chainsaws to their family's botti to make space for 225-liter barriques. The injection of oak into the wine tamed the rawness of young Barolo, and there are many Barolo made today that are drinkable within only a few years, instead of the decades required for traditionally made Barolo.
This is Elio Grasso, a legendary traditional Barolo winemaker.
Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera 2006 ($170).
Decanted. Even when decanting, the fumes of this thing filled my kitchen. The nose is heaven - roses, whiff of tar, leather, raspberry, blood. It is so deeply perfumed. The palate follows - the initial tannin attack fades to fruit, light Basalmic vinegar, and the other secondary flavors. The acid lingers. It is both fresh and deep. It is like a male ballet dancer - muscular but agile.
I love Barolo and this is a great expression. Could take another 10 years in the bottle, but drinking wonderfully now.
Ciao, Italia. We have an interesting mix of races and wines to look forward to ahead of our next GT in July.